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MT 18 December 2016

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 18 DECEMBER 2016 38 Food SITUATED in the heart of Rabat, Palazzo Castelletti is a hidden gem. A stone's throw from Crystal Pal- ace, or 'Serkin' as many of us lov- ingly refer to it, I knew we were in for something special. The Palazzo is as pleasing to the eyes as the vitello tonnato was to our stomachs. Palazzo Castelletti operates three completely different restaurants: San Andrea, a delightful a la carte fine dining establishment, RedWhite, the pizza, pasta and grill operation and Trois, a coffee shop which transforms beautifully into a wine bar at sundown. The Palazzo has effectively revolutionised the art of dining, ensuring that they can cater for every single person who walks through their doors. Our meal took place on the third anniversary of restoration of the magnificent 400-year-old Palazzo. Having maintained an incredibly high standard throughout the past three years, all three establishments have consistently received the high- est ratings possible from all avail- able reviewing agencies. That said, I was just itching to see for myself what the hype was all about. My guest and I, amongst another 60 or so other patrons, were treat- ed to the quarterly menu launch of the San Andrea restaurant. We had been psyching ourselves up for what was to come all day and be- lieve you me, it was worth it. Starting off with a bang, we were served our amuse bouche, round one of six. The warm, crisp frittatini with a carbonara-like filling were just what was needed to whet our appetite and prepare us for what was to come. If the amuse bouche was anything to go by, we were in for a treat. Within minutes, we were faced with round two: thinly sliced veal with a thick, rich tonnato sauce, contrasted perfectly with the sharp tangy caper berries and the fresh crunch of the rucola. Finished off with just a dash of sweet paprika, the dish was a delicious roller- coaster ride for our palates. As we waited for round three, my guest and I escaped for a few minutes and wandered around the grounds of the Palazzo. We were taken aback by the stunning décor and overall ambiance that the man- agement has created, their evident care for the building as well as a keen eye for detail. It's no wonder many have opted for the Palazzo as their wedding venues. As we wandered through the grounds, we were suddenly struck by a wave of panic. The mere thought of our next course being served without us was too much to bear and we legged it back to our table. We made it just in time as the friendly waiter brought over our fa- vourite dish of the night: the risotto nero di sepia. The combination of a chilly November evening and a warm satisfying bowl of risotto was just what we needed. As we dug in, not a word was exchanged between us. The perfect char-grilled squid lay atop a large portion of creamy, black risotto, flavoured with subtle hints of garlic and marjoram, we were two happy campers. Once we had cleaned our plates, we were in desperate need of some sort of intermission. It was at this point that we were presented with a fresh, palate-cleansing lemon cream mandarin sorbet, topped with fresh fruit and served in a champagne flute. Contrasting delightfully with the previous courses, San Andrea staff knew exactly what they were doing. We were not done yet, however. Round five: braised pork cheeks with potato puree and root vegeta- bles, along with a separate bowl of perfectly seasoned roast potatoes. The pork had that melt-in-your- mouth quality about it and the veg- etables were presented in the form of delightful little crisps, making it an absolute breeze to get through the course. Our stomachs begged us to stop but we had already gotten too far. We were served our dessert: home- made marshmallow bars, served with roast peaches and delectable white chocolate ice cream. A dish reminiscent of our childhood with a fine dining twist. As the meal came to a close, we thought it best to finish off the night with espresso lungos; just the kick we needed to ensure that we would make it home without slipping into satisfying food comas. Walking out into the chilly air, we couldn't help but smile. Whether it's a party you're planning or a ro- mantic meal for two, I strongly urge you to find out for yourself what the hype is all about. This is a personal guarantee that you will be walking out with the very same smile. Resto of the week WINE OF THE WEEK Six courses off the brand new menu of perfection PALAZZO CASTELLETTI ST PAUL'S STREET, RABAT TEL: 21452562 WEB: WWW. PALAZZOCASTELLETTI.COM FACEBOOK: PALAZZO- CASTELLETTI Ornellaia 2013 - Bolgheri Superiore, Toscana (Italy) The desire to nurture the Estate's exceptional qualities has shaped Ornellaia's philosophy since the beginning. Ornellaia is a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot and the faithful expression of unique terroir developed in harmony with nature. Ornellaia 2013, with its dense, vibrant colour, has a nose of splendid aromatic complexity built around a limpid and brilliant fruitiness, underscored by refined spicy and balsamic notes. The mouth develops vibrant and complex fruity nuances framed by a dense, slender structure with tannins that attain a rare harmony between firmness and fleshiness, concluding with a long balanced and fresh finish Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T:2144 4400 Any regular Gourmet readers know that we are huge fans of Palazzo Castelletti and we will not deny that their quarterly menu change is pencilled into our diaries. This time AMY MICALLEF DECESARE does the honours of trying out their new menu and as we suspected, she was not disappointed

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