Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/494410
VIII maltatoday, SUNDAY, 12 APRIL 2015 Food The grapes were harvested in the third week of September. Fermentation lasted 8 days at a temperature of 28° - 30° C. (82° - 86° F.). The wine matured for 12 months, 50% in 350 liter (92 gallon) tonneaux and 50% in 60 hectoliter (1,320 gallon) oak barrels, followed by a further period of bottle ageing. Broad and persistent, in which one finds, apart from almond blossom notes, intense spicy hints. Dry, well-structured and extremely rounded, it offers very complex fruit flavors on the palate. These are reminiscent of cherries preserved in brandy, mingled with a very appealing spiciness that lingers on the finish. Food matches: Delicious with richly- flavored dishes, barbecued meats and fairly aged cheeses. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Nero d'Avola - Principi di Butera, Sicily Area The districts of Butera and Riesi in the Province of Caltanissetta Grape 100% Nero d'Avola At the Gourmet editorial meetings, when each element of the magazine is laid out, one important topic of discussion is word count. Each feature is assigned a word count that will fit nicely in the space available and play nice with any other content, like images. This month, I was asked to write 500 words about Rubino, a Valletta restaurant with over a hundred years of history and an unparalleled reputation for exceptional food. It also happens to be one of my favourite restaurants. How hard could it be? I'm stumped. What can I possibly say about this place that you don't already know? Rubino has held its own over the years, cementing itself into the very culture of Valletta as one of those restaurants you can head to for a quiet tête-à-tête or a big group outing and still get the same stel- lar service and quality. A place where you can close your eyes and point randomly at the menu board and be completely certain you're going to love what Fate selected for you. Of course Fate, a concept philosophers and theologians have been debating for centuries, is not the only assistance you'll get. Flag down any one of the staff here for a charming smile, an intimate knowledge of the food and wine and a few suggestions of their own. Trust them blindly. The Diacono family know exactly what they're doing. Still struggling with my review, I turn to our food choices in search of a good starting point. The rosemary risotto is a creamy, delicate dish and something that makes the regulars' hearts sing whenever it is on the menu. I also tried the fettucine with pork, the bold, beautiful bombshell to the risotto's demure damsel. Next up were the stuffed marrows, rotund green vessels pouring out a mix of pork and beef. An age-old recipe and much-loved classic, this dish takes on an otherworldly nature thanks to chef patron Michael Di- acono's careful ministrations. I had the pork fillet with honey and thyme, a dish that, according to our host, has been prepared in the Rubino kitchens ever since it opened. Clearly they've perfected the recipe. The f lattened meat offers a savoury counter- point to the sweetness of the honey and the thyme, a staple in traditional meat dishes. At Rubino, even the side attractions deserve the limelight and the roast potatoes and vegeta- bles are no longer just accompaniments but a moreish feature all their own. That's it, I think. I simply cannot write this review. I may as well hand in my Food Writer's License and hide myself in shame. The only thought that comforts me is the memory of that coffee pannacotta I had for dessert. Not too overpowering, it allowed the coffee f lavours to unfurl themselves in the wobbly gelatinous creation. Along with a heaped bowl of strawberries and cream and some of the airiest, most wonderful helwa tat-tork I've ever tasted and what you get is two very full diners and the reaffirmed conviction that this is, in fact, cracking good food. Rachel Agius takes a look at a restaurant and brings a recipe, wine and delicacy of the week. Write to us with your comments on restaurants or submit your own recipes to rzammitcutajar@mediatoday.com.mt Resto of the week Rubino 53, Old Bakery Street, Valletta. Tel: 21224656 Email: info@rubinomalta.com Facebook: Rubino Cracking good food at Rubino No list of Valletta restaurants can be complete without Rubino – a success for more than 100 years. RACHEL AGIUS puts her trust in the Diaconos for a cracking good meal PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD Edward Diacono and (top) Michael