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MT 26 FEBRUARY 2017

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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 26 FEBRUARY 2017 35 THE south of Italy is famous for its Scamorza cheese. From the moz- zarella family, the semi-soft white cheese, which is similar to a provo- lone in shape, is made throughout Apulia and in some parts of Cam- pania and Molise. The cheese is made from pasteur- ized cow's milk or from a mixture of cow and sheep milk. The Scamorza made in Bari is made primarily with sheep's milk. The process by which it is made involves stretch- ing and moulding the curd that has been ripened for about 24 hours. The future cheese is then cooled in cold water and put in a brine bath for a period that varies according to the weight of the individual cheese. The process of stretching the curd and allowing it to mature in its own whey allows the acidity to develop by the process of lactose being con- verted to lactic acid. The end result is drier than Moz- zarella, but is equally as smooth and shiny in texture. At the end of the cheese making process, the cheeses are hanged together in strings to ripen for about two weeks. The process of ripening the cheese has given Scamorza its name, which in southern Italy means 'beheaded'. After two weeks of ripening, the cheese is sold as it is or smoked. The smoked variant, called Scamorzi Affumicate is made by smoking the cheese over flaming straw for around 10 to 15 minutes. A fresh version of Scamorza is also sold within a few days of produc- tion. The texture of Scamorza is elas- tic, stringy and has less moisture than Mozzarella. In addition, the flavour is more piquant, milky and creamy. Smoked Scamorza has a subtle, smoky flavour with a sweet, light caramel note. Scamorza is used as a substi- tute for Mozzarella as it imparts more interest in the recipe. Since Scamorza has excellent melting qualities, it is best known to fla- vour baking dishes, for griddling or topped with prosciutto for extra zest. The smoky flavour of Scamor- za pairs well with oak-aged Char- donnay, Pinot Girgio or Orvieto. Scamorza is generally eaten fresh or smoked, with the latter (Scamor- zi Affumicate), having a lovely gold outer layer which makes an excel- lent table cheese that is also great when used in cooking. Scamorza can be substituted for mozzarella in most dishes as can any other cheese but the resulting taste will be much stronger and more dominant. It is reputed to melt better in baking. Using the smoked variety (scamorza affumi- cata) adds a nice background fla- vour in replacement of mozzarella. Scamorze allo spiedo is a very old dish in which small scamor- za cheeses are threaded on spits which revolve over a wood fire. During the cooking process, the cheese takes on an amber colour and the interior becomes creamy and buttery. Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 1 cauliflower, cut into large florets • 6 eggs • 4 tbsp crème fraîche • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 3 tbsp chives, finely chopped • 150g smoked scamorza, grated (include the skin for extra flavour) • 50g mature cheddar, grated • Salt and pepper • 2 tbsp olive oil Method 1. Boil the cauliflower florets in salted water until tender (ap- prox. 10 mins). Drain and set aside. 2. Whisk together the eggs with the crème fraiche, Dijon mustard and smoked paprika. 3. Stir in the chives and three quarters of the grated cheese. 4. In a heavy-based pan that can be transferred to the oven, heat some olive oil and add the cauliflower florets in one layer. 5. Fry until the bottom of the cauliflower is golden. 6. Add the egg mixture and al- low to cook for approx. 5 mins. 7. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the top and transfer to the oven. 8. Cook for approx 12 mins un- til the eggs have set and the cheese on top is melted. 9. Allow to rest for a couple of mins before slicing into wedges and serving with a green salad. Recipe of the week Smoky frittata Smoky flavours in cheesy goodness Prepared in under half an hour, this makes the perfect mid-week meal for when life gets too busy to cook lavish meals. The smoky overtones from the scamorza and the smoked paprika give flavour to the eggs that pair well with a peppery green salad. Scamorza cheese is hanged for about two weeks to ripen

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