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MT 18 January 2015

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XIII maltatoday, Sunday, 18 January 2015 Food Eggs in the morning make the most indulgent breakfast, whether the English way with bacon and baked beans or the French way smothered in Hollandaise sauce. They make a great light lunch or supper, or a great snack and are absolutely imperative in baking. Eggs are a useful source of protein, iodine and essential vitamins and are almost indispensable to the cook. Hens' eggs are the type of egg most frequently used in cooking. Duck eggs, gull eggs and quail eggs are less frequently used and are generally eaten on their own, rather than in baking. Quail eggs are small with dark-brown speckled shells. Duck eggs are larger than hens' eggs and richer in flavour, lending a creamy depth to baked dishes. Goose eggs and ostrich eggs are even bigger and for this reason are often blown out and decorated for Easter. Gulls' eggs are not widely available, but if you do come across them, serve them in much the same way as quails' eggs. In Malta duck and quail eggs are available from specialist stores and some of the larger supermarkets, but other varieties of egg are more difficult to find. Chicken eggs Chicken eggs come in various sizes, from small to extra large, and various shades of brown, white and, less commonly, blue. The colour of the shell comes down to the breed of the hen that laid it; the difference in flavour is subtle, if noticeable at all. Often a recipe will state the size of egg required. Supermarket labels can be confus- ing. 'Farm fresh', for example, is a meaningless description, and the eggs could have been laid by chickens farmed in battery cages. 'Barn eggs' come from chickens kept inside, where there are a maximum of nine birds per square metre. 'Free range' egg production provides chickens with daytime access to runs covered with vegetation, with a maximum 2,500 birds per hectare. Organic eggs are from chickens with the same privileges as free-range and are produced according to European laws on organic produc- tion. Growth promoters, artificial pesticides, fungicides, herbicides and commercial fertilisers cannot be used in the feed for organic produc- tion. Duck eggs Cooking with duck eggs doesn't call for a major revision in tech- nique. But there are differences: the yolks of duck eggs have more fat and the whites more protein than those of chicken eggs, and you need to take these differences into account when cooking. Somewhat gentler cooking is the key. They are gener- ally larger than a chicken egg but smaller than a goose egg with a tougher shell and therefore a gen- erally longer shelf life. The yolk to white ratio is larger in duck eggs making it a treat for yolk-lovers. They have been known to have a slightly oilier consistency and a sweet gamey f lavour. The egg white has a tendency to become rubbery if overcooked, therefore when frying, cook until almost done and then add a cou- ple of tablespoons of water to the pan and cover to finish. They are an excellent substitute to chicken eggs in baking as the higher protein levels in the whites encourage cakes to rise and stay risen. The higher fat content in the yolks gives baked good a richer colour and flavour. Size of the egg should be taken into consideration adjusting recipes by a ratio of one duck egg to two chicken eggs. Quail eggs Quail eggs are packed with vitamins and minerals. Even with their small size, their nutritional value is three to four times greater than chicken eggs. Quail eggs contain 13% proteins compared to 11% in chicken eggs. Quail eggs also contain 140% of vitamin B1 compared to 50% in chicken eggs. In addition, quail eggs provide five times as much iron and potas- sium. Unlike chicken eggs, quail eggs have not been know to cause allergies or diathesis. Actually they help fight allergy symptoms due to the ovomucoid protein they contain. Regular consumption of quail eggs has been known to help fight anemia and infectious disease as well as promote digestive and nervous health as well and increasing sexual potency. Quail eggs can be consumed raw as quails are resistant to salmo- nella and other infections as a result of a high level of lysozyme that kills harmful bacteria. The health benefits of raw quail eggs are superior to those of cooked eggs. Eggcellently versatile Bennys with Portobello mushrooms, asparagus and pancetta Serves 4 Ingredients 8 Portobello mushrooms • 2 cloves garlic • Handful thyme • Olive oil • 16 asparagus spears, steamed • 8 slices pancetta • 8 eggs • 2 tsp white vinegar • Hollandaise sauce • Method Heat the oil and fry the garlic and thyme. Fry 1. the mushrooms until slightly softened but still have some integrity. Set aside. Grill the pancetta until crispy and set aside. 2. Bring a saucepan of water to a simmer, add the 3. vinegar and whisk the water to create a vortex. Crack the egg into a ramekin and gently drop 4. the egg into the vortex and allow to simmer for 3½ mins. remove egg with a slotted spoon and place on 5. a paper towel to absorb excess water. use the Portobello mushroom instead of the 6. muffin, place 2 asparagus spears on the top, followed by the poached egg. Season with salt and pepper, 2 tbsp Hollandaise 7. sauce, and a slice of crispy pancetta. Fine food of the week Recipe of the week Quail eggs are about the size of an olive though they contain three to four times the nutritional value of a chicken egg Hollandaise sauce Makes 1 cup Ingredients 4 egg yolks • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 113g butter (½ packet), melted • ½ tsp salt • ½ tsp cayenne pepper • Method In a stainless steel bowl whisk 1. the egg yolks with the lemon juice until the mixture has thickened. Place the bowl over a small 2. saucepan of barely simmering water (the bowl should not touch the water). Whisking continuously pour in 3. the melted butter, not letting the eggs get too hot (if the eggs get too hot they will scramble!). Continue to whisk until the 4. mixture is thick and has doubled in volume. remove from the heat and whisk 5. in salt and cayenne pepper.

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