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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 2 OCTOBER 2016 49 PARIS is over-crowded and over- priced. But this is something that is to be expected for one of Europe's top tourist destinations. While the Eiffel Tower, The Louvre and Notre Dame are almost always at the top of every tourist's to-do list, if you take the time to do some exploring it is easy to find many reasons to fall in love with gay ol' Paree, no matter how many clichés she represents. She is, after all, the city of love and offers magical ex- periences hard to beat anywhere in the world. All you have to do is dig a little deeper. Belleville There's always been the trendy and hipster parts of the city and Montmartre and La Marais, cool as they are, are becoming more and more popular with the tour- ists and, in turn, pricier by the day. Belleville is the answer if you're looking for hip and cool without the price tag. Lacking the finesse of Montmartre and La Marais, this working-class cosmopolitan neighbourhood is gritty-cool and a jungle of Chinese supermarkets, African stores, Tunisian restau- rants and French cafés. Mostly fre- quented by the Parisian bourgeois- bohèmes tourists are few and far between in this neighbourhood. Spend an afternoon exploring the quirky Rue Denoyez, a lane crammed with graffiti, street-art, and murals, followed by a drink at the legendary Café Aux Folies (an Edith Piaf favourite) and you'll understand why it is so easy to fall in love with this whimsical neigh- bourhood. Paris by night Paris has some incredible sights: the Louvre, Sacré-Coeur, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower. These are all spots you need to see at least once in your lifetime. But as romantic as these great pieces of history sound, jostling with tour- ists wielding selfie-sticks takes away a lot of the grandeur. If you'd rather take in these sights on your own, try visiting them at night. Although you won't be able to get inside, they are all beautifully lit and equally impressive when night falls, with the added bonus of being (mostly) tourist free. If you'd rather spend your night partying, take a trip to the iconic club Les Bains in the third arron- dissement. The 19th century bath- house was home to many resident DJs before they acquired interna- tional fame, among them David Guetta as well as impromptu per- formances by the likes of Prince and Depeche Mode. Regular party- goers included Mick Jagger, John- ny Depp and Kate Moss rubbing shoulders with both the under- ground and the glamorous, the big names and the nobodies, all min- gling by the mosaic tile pool. Re- opened quietly last year after being closed for five years, this time as a 39-room boutique hotel, with a smaller club in the basement and a restaurant that literally shines. Le Mask provides a different experience altogether. This Eyes- Wide-Shut kind of night out will see you swinging from the chan- deliers among modern day Casa- novas. Decadence and anonymity are guaranteed as masks are de ri- gueur. Paris Catacombs Running beneath the City of Light is a much more sinister world. The underground limestone tunnels that run beneath the city were used as quarries in times gone by. By the 18th century the tunnels were used for burial purposes as the largest Parisian cemetery, Les Innocents, was becoming overpopulated, leading to improper burials, open graves and unearthed corpses and resulting diseases, and the remains of the people buried there were eventually exhumed and moved to the quarries. Though the tunnels run some 300km only a small portion is open to the public, with access to any other area being illegal since 1955. They were used during World War II by the French Resistance and also for Nazi bunkers. In more re- cent years the catacombs are used by 'cataphiles' (lovers of under- ground) for parties and concerts with many secret entrances to the tunnels throughout the city. Plan- ning a trip to the catacombs? Be sure to stick to parts open to the public as getting lost in the cata- combs is inevitable. There is a leg- end of a man who got lost and died in the catacombs in 1973 and his body was not found for another 11 years. La Petite Ceinture If you like your cities with a gen- erous dose of quirk, take a trip to the 11th arrondissement to the defunct railway tracks of La Petite Ceinture. Abandoned since 1934, the railways are now overgrown with weeds and bright flowers whilst its walls are masked with graffiti. Food and wine If you are one to travel for food and wine, Paris has no shortage of food markets, Michelin-starred restaurants as well as bistrots and bakeries on every corner. If you really want to take a piece of Paris home with you try a cook- ing course. Home of the world renowned Cordon Bleu, Paris knows a thing or two about cook- ery courses. Leave the city with the skills to bake your own macarons or croissants for a souvenir that lasts for life. France without wine would just be an incomplete trip and while the vineyards and chateaux are outside of Paris, you can get the most com- prehensive tour of French wines at O Chateau, www.o-chateau.com. Travel Two readers have the chance to win a complimentary return ticket each for travel on any scheduled Air Malta flights (excluding taxes and charges). All you have to do is answer the question below and send in your name, mobile number and email address to: Maltatoday competition, Air Malta plc, Sky Parks, Malta International Airport, Luqa, LQA 4000. The closing date is 14 October. for burial purposes as the largest Parisian cemetery, Les Innocents, was becoming overpopulated, leading to improper burials, open have to do is answer the question below and send in your name, mobile number and email address to: , Air Malta plc, Sky Parks, Malta International Airport, Luqa, LQA 4000. Question: How many times a week does Air Malta operate flights to Paris in winter? a) Twice a week b) Four times a week c) Eight times a week ✂ Mobile Number Getting there Air Malta offer direct flights between Malta and Paris four times a week to Orly and another four times a week to Charles de Gaulle for the winter season. One way prices including 20kg baggage allowance start form €83 including taxes and charges. Visit www.airmalta.com for more info Name Email Deeper into the heart of Paris Eiffel Tower: Save the tourist spots for after the sun sets to get a view of these spectacular sights when the crowds have dissipated La Petite Ceinture: Abandoned in 1934, La Petite Ceinture railway is now overrun with weeds and its walls are masked in graffiti Catacombs: The Paris Catacombs are the final resting place of six million Parisians, in tunnels spanning some 300km

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