Issue link: https://maltatoday.uberflip.com/i/829524
maltatoday, SUNDAY, 28 MAY 2017 42 Food I'M going to do something unu- sual and start from the tail end of my most recent meal. First I should clarify that I've never been a huge fan of carrots. Don't get me wrong, I am neither allergic nor do I have especially strong nega- tive feelings towards them. How- ever I've often felt these bright or- ange root vegetables were added to dishes just because of their eye- catching colour. Nothing more to offer than a pretty face. The Kim Kardashian of the vegetable draw- er, if you will. I tell you I am converted. All it took was one quaint little eat- ery, hidden away in the heart of Gharghur to change my mind. The life-changing carrots in question took the shape of a pu- ree, atop which was perched a beautiful shallow fried pork loin. The pale orange mash was truly transcendent, offering a depth of flavour I never thought I'd find in what I had previously considered only a halfhearted supporting act in the food performance. I take it all back. The sweetness struck a lovely balance with the savoury, rich pork flavour, which itself had a beautiful colour gradient and just a little crunch to the outer surface. This is not a dish to miss. But I'm getting ahead of my- self. The eatery in question is Cent'Anni, one of Gharghur's best-kept secrets and an excel- lent location for a quiet dinner, a romantic tête-à-tête or a catch- up with friends. Though this is a wine bar more than a restaurant, no stone has been left unturned in the quest for incredible ingre- dients for a night out. The place is small – you wouldn't fit a big party in here – but that only serves to help you appreciate the ambience and history of the place. It's tucked in a little road off the main square, nestled among other traditional townhouses, and has plenty of authentic features such as colourful tiles, old bar decora- tions and that cosy feel created by centuries-old limestone walls. A tiny fortress against the chaos of modern life. Our host Rene takes very special care about what goes on his menu and the starters section is packed with organic, artisanal and oth- erwise high quality cold cuts and cheeses. The cured leg of jamon iberico, bolted into its somewhat medieval looking cradle on the bar, is testament to that. And the wine list… oh the wine list! This is where Cent'Anni really excels. Rene imports a lot of wines himself so you won't find these lit- tle treasures anywhere else on the market. There is a vast selection of boutique wines, small wineries that believe in quality over mass production. Rene takes great care in selecting the wines he does, choosing indigenous wines made with indigenous grapes, this way you're sure to get a genuine taste of the terroir of your choice. Both I and my guest chose a ham-based starter. My dish consisted of or- ganic cacciocavallo – a harder cheese with a robust flavour – and thinly sliced strips of pancetta. The ham was almost silken, it was so delicate. My guest chose the Serrano ham, a wonderfully moreish dish. You know how I felt about my main course (see above) and my guest was equally enthused with her fresh linguine with pesto and prawns. A com- mendable take on an old favour- ite. If you're not too hungry, Cent'Anni still has plenty to keep you happy though. We spied a well stocked bar, with a selection of gins and whiskeys big enough to sate even the most particular drinker. This is a wine bar after all! A selection of platters and dips will also keep you happy if you're only a little peckish – a good ac- companiment to a relaxed night cap. This little treasure of a wine bar certainly surpassed our expecta- tions, and we could both only wish this was our 'local' – it's a place that meets any foodie's needs, no matter what they're after. Resto of the week A new exceptional vintage which celebrates the maturity of a plots selection from the estate. Coming from vines aged between 25 years, the 281 boasts a color of pale rose with crystal reflections. Very intense with a great complexity, the finesse of white fruits is revealed by iodine notes giving it a unique character. This rosé with a vibrating expression is a concentration of greedy aromas, with an intense freshness which offers the full expression of fruits. Exclusively imported by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd, Valley Road, Birkirkara T: 2144 4400 Minuty 281 Chateau Minuty, Provence (France) A little treasure in a sleepy village Cent'Anni Triq Luigi Catania, Gharghur Tel: 99459914/27033321 Facebook: centanni WINE OF THE WEEK You can judge a restaurant by the way it treats its vegetables… or was that a man and animals? Whatever the case the little wine bar, Cent'Anni, has shown RACHEL AGIUS its true colours with an unlikely hero, a side dish of carrot mash.