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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 28 MAY 2017 43 THOUGH no longer used as a currency, to the culinary world pepper is still just as valuable, be- ing a vital ingredient to many cui- sines around the world. The world's most traded spice, peppercorns are native to India, though they are grown in many other tropical regions, with Viet- nam being the largest producer and exporter. The dried fruit of the flower- ing vine Piperaceae is available in many different varieties – black, white, green, orange and pink. Fla- vours and heat vary according to how ripe the peppercorn is when harvested and the methods used for drying and preserving. The largest black peppercorn is the Tellicherry, considered to be the best because it's left on the vine longer for more developed flavour. Other black peppercorns are Sarawak, Malabar, and Viet- namese, but unless you're buying from a specialty spice store, the packaging usually doesn't specify the origin. Black pepper Black pepper is produced from the still-green unripe drupes of the pepper plant which are cooked briefly in hot water before they are dried. The heat ruptures the cell walls, speeding up the work of the browning enzymes and forming a dark wrinkly shell after being dried. Once the peppercorns are dried, pepper spirit and oil can be ex- tracted from the berries by crush- ing them. Pepper spirit is used in famous beverages like Coca-Cola and many medicinal and beauty products. Pepper oil is also used as a massage oil and in certain beauty treatments. Like most spices, black pepper tastes best when freshly ground. A quality peppermill allows you to control the size of the grind from fine to coarse. For small quantities of freshly ground pepper a pep- per mill is usually enough but if you need larger quantities a spice grinder or coffee mill is a time saver. White pepper The darker skin of the pepper fruit is removed leaving the pun- gent seed. Red pepper berries are usually soaked in water where the outer skin softens and decom- poses. They are then rubbed to re- move any excess skin, leaving the white spicy seed. These peppercorns have a slight- ly hotter flavour and help keep light colored dishes and sauces aesthetically appealing. These peppercorns go especially well in sauces, on light colored meats such as fish, and even in mashed pota- toes. White peppercorns have a unique aroma that is not only hot, but slightly musky. They are the preferred pepper in much of the world. Green pepper Green pepper, like black, is made from the unripe drupes and treated to retain their green colour. Pickled peppercorns, also green, are un- ripe drupes preserved in brine or vinegar. Fresh, unpreserved green pepper drupes, largely unknown in the West, are used in some Asian cuisines, particularly Thai cuisines, and are piquant and fresh with a bright aroma. Red pepper Orange pepper or red pepper usually consists of ripe red pep- per drupes preserved in brine and vinegar. Ripe red peppercorns can also be dried using the same col- our-preserving techniques used to produce green pepper. Pink pepper These rare and sometimes hard to find peppercorns come from France's Reunion Island off the Madagascar coast in the Indian Ocean. They have a fruity, slightly tart flavour, which goes especially well in fruit sauces, vinaigrette, and desserts. Pink peppercorns have a rich pink colour that adds an inter- esting touch of colour to foods. These are not true "pepper- corns", but a similar tasting berry from South America. Sichuan pepper The Sichaun peppercorn is wide- ly grown and used in many Asian dishes and like the pink pepper- corn is not related to the other peppercorns or chili peppers. It is a key component of Chinese five- spice powder and the taste is a bit pungent and very fragrant with a hint of citrus. It also doesn't pos- sess the heat of other peppercorns or chili peppers. Preparation tips Pepper should be added to cooked dishes towards the end of cooking to prevent creating a bit- ter flavour, which can occur when pepper is cooked too long. Cook- ing for more than two hours com- pletely zaps the flavour and aromas from the peppercorns. Pepper will have an amplified flavour after food it is in has been frozen. Try adding pink peppercorns to dishes and sauces to add colour, or keep your light coloured dishes and sauces light with white pep- percorns. Freshly ground pepper goes sur- prisingly well on fresh fruit. This is especially true for pink pepper- corns, they are a common ingredi- ent in fruit sauces and as a garnish for fruit dishes. Try lightly toasting peppercorns before use. Fine food of the week Food Ingredients • 500g wild salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 4 portions • ¼ tsp plus a pinch of salt, divided • 2 tsps canola oil • ¼ cup lemon juice • 4 tsp unsalted butter, cut into small pieces • 1 tsp green peppercorns in vinegar, rinsed and crushed Method 1. Sprinkle salmon pieces with ¼ teaspoon salt. 2. Heat oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. 3. Add the salmon and cook un- til just opaque in the centre, gently turning halfway, 4 to 7 mins total. 4. Divide among 4 plates. 5. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately add lemon juice, butter, peppercorns and the remaining pinch of salt; swirl the pan carefully to in- corporate the butter into the sauce. 6. Top each portion of fish with sauce (about 2 teaspoons each). Recipe of the week Seared salmon with green peppercorns Peppercorns, the spice of life