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maltatoday, SUNDAY, 13 DECEMBER 2015 35 Fine food of the week CHOCOLATE making today bears very lit- tle resemblance to the original xocotlatl that the Spanish colonialists discovered from the Aztecs. Christopher Columbus discovered the cocoa bean in the New World where local tribes had built a culture of worship around the holy bean, though it wasn't until Cortez discovered the monetary and nutritional val- ue of chocolate, 17 years later, that chocolate came to Europe. The Aztecs brewed their own party drink that they called xocotlatl – a bitter-tasting drink made from roasted ground cocoa beans with peppery spices and hot peppers. Though not to the taste of Spanish conquer- ors, they were intrigued by the monetary value of the cocoa bean, which was used as payment for slaves and was thus known as the "gold of the New World." The Spanish monks then enhanced the drink with sugar and vanilla, with some de- scribing the drink as delicious and nutrition- al and the clergy banning the drink as it was lust arousing. The myths that chocolate caused pleasure were around even then and have lived on to this day. The effects of chocolate have been studied extensively and it has been concluded that the brain treats chocolate as a drug with pharmacological actions occurring in the brain. Chocolate contains cannabinoids, the com- pounds responsible for the high of marijuana, though the concentration is too low to cause an effect. The compounds which do have an effect are caffeine, tyramine and tryptophan, which convert into feel-good chemicals dopamine and serotonin. Today a number of different types of choc- olate are available. Cocoa powder: This unsweetened powder is pulverized, partially defatted chocolate liq- uor. Cocoa powder gives an intense chocolate taste and is available in "Dutch-processed" (alkalized) or natural varieties. Unsweetened chocolate: Also known as "bitter" or "baking" chocolate. This is pure chocolate liquor, composed solely of ground cocoa beans. Although it looks and smells like chocolate, it has a bitter taste and is not meant for consumption on its own — it is best used in cooking, when it can be com- bined with sugar to make it more palatable. Dark chocolate: Chocolate that contains chocolate liquor, sugar, cocoa butter, va- nilla and leicithin (an emulsifier). There are no milk solids added in dark chocolate. The cocoa content of commercial dark choco- late bars can range from 30% (sweet dark) to 70- 80% for extremely dark bars. Bittersweet chocolate and semi-sweet chocolate also fall into the "dark chocolate" category. Bittersweet chocolate: Chocolate contains at least 35% cocoa solids. Most bittersweet bars contain at least 50% chocolate liquor, with some bars pushing 70-80% chocolate liquor. This chocolate often has a deeper, more bitter flavour than sweet dark or semi- sweet bars. Semi-sweet chocolate: This is primarily an American term, popularised by Nestle Toll House semi-sweet chocolate chips. Semi- sweet chocolate contains at least 35% cocoa solids, and is generally assumed to be darker than sweet dark chocolate, but sweeter than bittersweet. However, the lack of regulations regarding sugar content means that these classifications are relative and not consistent across brands. Sweet dark chocolate: is "dark chocolate" in the sense that it does not contain milk sol- ids, but it still has a high percentage of sugar and is much sweeter than other types of dark chocolate. Many brands of sweet dark choc- olate have only 20-40% cocoa solids. Milk chocolate: In addition to contain- ing cocoa butter and chocolate liquor, milk chocolate contains either condensed milk or dry milk solids. Milk chocolate must contain at least 10% chocolate liquor, 3.39% butterfat, and 12% milk solids. Milk chocolates are typ- ically much sweeter than dark chocolate, and have a lighter colour and a less pronounced chocolate taste. Milk chocolate is more dif- ficult to temper properly and more prone to overheating. White chocolate: White chocolate gets its name from the cocoa butter it contains, but does not contain chocolate liquor or any other cocoa products. As a result, it has no pronounced chocolate taste, but commonly tastes like vanilla or other added flavourings. By law, white chocolate must contain a mini- mum 20% cocoa butter, 14% milk solids, and a maximum of 55% sugar. Recipe of the week Chocolate: Gold of the New World By Sandra Dimech Ingredients Serves 6 – 8 • 1 tin sweetened condensed milk • 1 tsp sea salt • 250g plain chocolate • 150g butter, cubed • 2 eggs • 2 egg yolks • 100g caster sugar • 1 tbsp plain flour • Crème fraiche or pouring cream to serve Method Salted caramel 1. Place the tin of sweetened condensed milk in a pan of wa- ter, making sure it is covered in water, and bring to boil. 2. Simmer for 2½ to 3 hours, making sure tin is kept covered in water. 3. Remove the tin and leave to cool for about 30 mins. 4. Take about 3 tbsp of the caramel and mix with salt. Re- frigerate. (Use the rest of caramel in a banoffee pie, as ice cream topping or as cake filling) Chocolate mixture 1. Place chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl over a pan of gently simmering water until melted. The bowl should not touch the water. Remove it from heat and give it a good stir. 2. Whisk sugar, eggs and egg yolks until thick and creamy in colour. 3. Add the melted chocolate to the sugar and egg mixture and whisk until smooth and glossy. 4. Sift the flour over the chocolate mixture and fold it in gently. 5. Spoon half the mixture into the base of 6 to 8 greased ramekins. 6. Place a teaspoonful of the salted caramel in the centre on top and cover with the remaining chocolate mixture. 7. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for 18-22 mins. The puddings should have risen and feel firm to touch. Leave to stand for 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the puddings onto serv- ing plate and serve with crème fraiche or pouring cream. These puddings are also good after they have gone cold. They can also be prepared to step 5 and frozen. They can be baked from frozen for about 25 minutes. 11. Carefully remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. 12. Serve cool. Food Salted caramel puddings Chocolate releases chemicals in the brain that create a feel good factor